Often called the holy grail of acne treatment, retinoids reduce oil production and help clear skin by preventing clogged pores. They are available in over-the-counter serums, gels and creams, as well as stronger prescription products like tretinoin or isotretinoin.
Derived from vitamin A, they can treat everything from fine lines and wrinkles to mild pigmentation irregularities and acne to psoriasis. But before you use any, start slowly and be sure to follow instructions carefully.
How to Use
Retinoids are skincare workhorses that speed up the skin's natural process of exfoliation, unclog pores, and reduce acne marks and fine lines. The only drawback to using them is that they can be inactivated by sunlight and are irritated by certain other skin care ingredients, like salicylic acid. That's why it's important to apply them at night and to avoid other treatments that aren't formulated for use with retinoids, such as BHAs or alpha hydroxy acids.
Over-the-counter retinol is usually milder than prescription options. (Retinoids are derived from Vitamin A, and your body must convert it into the active compound to reap its benefits.) A good starter option is adapalene, which the FDA approved for OTC use in 2016; it's found in adapalene gels and is less expensive than many other prescription products.
While redness and peeling are completely normal retinoid side effects, you should see a dermatologist if you develop severe red patches or cystic breakouts, which can lead to hyperpigmentation and scarring, says board-certified nurse practitioner Jill Canes. Also, be aware that some products may interact with your retinoids: a beta-hydroxy acid, such as salicylic acid, tends to react poorly with retinoids, causing overdrying and stimulating more oil production.
Side Effects
Retinol and retinoids are a mainstay of acne treatment. They prevent pores from clogging and reduce and minimize scars caused by the condition. They also have anti-aging benefits, as they speed up the turnover of surface skin cells.
The most common topical prescription retinoids are tretinoin, isotretinoin and adapalene. These work to unclog blocked pores, treat blackheads and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. They are also prescribed for other dermatological conditions including psoriasis and to control skin growth (skin aging), keratosis pilaris, sun damage and hyperpigmentation.
Because retinoids can cause dry, flaky skin, it's important to use a moisturizer. You should also avoid products containing alpha hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, which can interact poorly with retinoids. If you're using a product that contains both, try to stagger the use of each and use them only on clean skin. Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, can help counteract the drying effects of retinoids. It can be added to your skincare routine as a serum or added to other treatments such as benzoyl peroxide, says Dr. Garshick.
Precautions
Retinoids, which include both natural and synthetic compounds related to vitamin A, accelerate skin cell turnover and neutralize inflammatory acne signals. They also boost collagen production, which reduces fine lines and wrinkles. You can find weaker retinols over the counter and stronger ones only with a doctor's prescription.
When applied topically, retinoids help clear mild to moderate acne and improve skin texture and tone. They can also reduce dark spots (hyperpigmentation) that develop from sun damage.
However, it's important to use retinoids correctly to avoid drying and irritation. Start with a pea-sized amount every other night for two weeks and gradually increase the frequency of application as tolerated. You should also use a sunscreen daily with an SPF of at least 30 while using retinoids. In addition, be sure to avoid other skincare products that contain salicylic acid, as it can degrade retinoids. Lastly, pregnant women should not use retinoids, as they can increase the risk of miscarriage and birth defects.
Combinations
A dermatologist can prescribe a variety of topical treatments that include retinoids, including adapalene, tazarotene, and tretinoin. Your doctor may also recommend retinoids to treat warts by disrupting their cell growth. Retinoids are usually safe for use with other skin products, but you should always consult a dermatologist before starting or combining any new treatments.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) helps decrease the redness and irritation caused by retinoids and can be effective in addressing acne. It can also counteract the drying effects of many retinoids. Benzoyl peroxide can unclog pores, reduce excess oil production, and kill bacteria that contribute to acne. It can be combined with retinoids to increase the effectiveness of treatment and to prevent antibiotic resistance.
If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, avoid using retinoids. They can be absorbed through the skin and enter botox in a bottle the bloodstream, which can affect your baby. You should also avoid rubbing the area where you apply the retinoids because it can cause irritation or burns.
